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The
best way of getting there is to take the N-521 road from Cáceres
towards Portugal. Only a few kilometres after leaving the
city we see a set of ruined buildings on the righthand side
with an eye-catching number of white-stork nests.
The first town we come to is Malpartida
de Caceres, on the outskirts of which there is a lake affording
good views of various waterbird species and waders on passage.
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| It should be borne in mind that
the lakes of this area, together with the Guadalquivir saltmarshes
and the wetlands of southern Alicante, are one of the few
known wintering quarters of the Temminck's stint in the Iberian
Peninsula. A road-sign in the town itself points off leftwards
to the site called Los Barruecos. It's well worth a visit,
not so much for the number of birds we'll see as the picturesque
scenery. Los Barruecos is a set of lakes surrounded by huge
granite blocks with stork nests perched on top. There's a
good chance of seeing otters here.
Continuing in the Portugal direction we cross
stunning "dehesas" (open grazing woods) with dense
cork-oak woods climbing up the hills on our left. After the
town of Aliseda we come to the Brozas turnoff; here there
is a small lay-by where we can park the car. From here it
is fairly easy to spot Bonelli's eagle, Egyptian vulture,
monk vulture, griffon vulture and black stork. It was in a
nest very close to here that the famous imperial eagle chick
called "Pizarro" was ringed, then to be tracked
in its juvenile dispersal across the Sahara as far as Senegal.
Only 8 kilometres from this point lie the Llanos de Brozas,
flatlands famed for their fine population of steppe birds.
One of the best spots to see imperial eagle is the mountain
pass called Puerto Hélice. To get there you first have
to go to Salorino and then take the road towards San Vicente
de Alcántara, the world's cork-producing capital. After
passing an area of oak plantations, the dehesa starts to get
denser and denser until cork oak takes over from holm oak
on the slopes of the sierra itself. As the road climbs up
to the mountain pass it winds through dense, shady vegetation
dominated by strawberry trees, flax-leaved daphne and different
species of the cistus family such as the sageleaf rockrose.
Although the road is very narrow it's well worth trying to
find a stopping place where you can pull over for a while
and look for other typical species of Mediterranean woodland.
A few years ago the lesser spotted woodpecker was detected
here, though it is not yet known to breed in the area. At
the top of the pass, which serves as the border between the
provinces of Cáceres and Badajoz, a small track leads
off to the left. We leave the car here and follow the track
across a cistus heath. After about 500 metros, just when the
first rocky outcrops start, we fork off left and climb up
to the top of the slope. This is an excellent vantage point
for spotting imperial eagle, Bonelli's eagle and other commoner
raptors such as booted eagle and short-toed eagle; the last
two species are summer visitors and hence can be seen only
in spring and summer. Sweeping views from Puerto Hélice
In winter the soaring birds of prey are replaced by flocks
of cranes and wood pigeons, the latter sometimes up to a million
strong.
The trip ends on the frontier with Portugal, in the Serra
de San Mamede. Just behind the buildings that once formed
the customs post is a bluff with a vulture colony. The Bonelli's
eagle also haunts these crags, while bullfinches can often
be found at the foot of them. Good chances of seeing or hearing
eagle owl.
Santiago Villa. |